Tae Ashida Tokyo Spring 2022 Collection


Tae Ashida has been on the track for two years. Before the pandemic, its shows were majestic affairs where diplomats sat alongside movie stars and musicians. This mix of political and entertainment luminaries was a testament to Ashida’s reach and the multiple demographics of the clients she was designing for. In recent seasons, she has approached the group via experimental fashion films which have seen her collaborate with Japanese directors like Yasuhiko Shimizu. For this tour, she wanted a real world showcase for her creations. To achieve this, Ashida took over the National Stadium of Japan, a site created specifically for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics, and put on an outdoor performance on its indoor track.

As her brand’s 30th anniversary approaches, Ashida’s recent work has focused on affirming its codes by focusing on its essential pieces. This season, that meant exploring the blazer, an item she selected for its connection to the office rather than the nebulous virtual space of telecommuting. The setup was carefully considered – guests were seated under the interlocking arcades designed by Kengo Kuma while respecting social distancing regulations – as were the clothing. Few people wear a jacket to work from home; to get the most out of a blazer, you have to go out.

Multiple incarnations of the play have made their way onto Ashida’s trail, but the lineup has avoided business blandness through the details. There were short tuxedo-style jackets adorned with oversized bows and single-breasted knee-length designs with a satin sheen for the girls. The boys were given crisp white-on-white versions with double textures and collars that extended into belts and classic houndstooth patterns paired with Bermuda shorts. The recurring check pattern paired well with the collection’s standout motif, a Chinese wallpaper-worthy print.

As the collection’s focus shifted to after-hours, Ashida hit her stride. There are fewer events to attend given the state of the world today, but this festive deficit means that each occasion takes on a special significance. As such, the formal dress was casual and versatile enough to be worn to low-key functions. Several looks featured touches borrowed from the boudoir; light column dresses with lace inserts and jumpsuits with a lace overlay replaced prom dresses. Even the most majestic dresses were offered in vaporous fabrics with flounces fluttering as models walked this Olympic runway.


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